George Turnbull (1809-1889): Autobiography: Chapter 14

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Chapter 14. 1861. (pages 173-191). East Indian Railway.

1861. January. My note book on 1st January, 1861, is entitled. Geo. Turnbull, 9, Russell Street, Calcutta, so we were fairly settled in new quarters; the old house was very good, but the landlord, a native, gave notice of raising the rent fifty rupees a month, and building another house in the compound, which would not suit me at all.

On the 1st January left Buxar with Fanny and our two children, and reached Benares at 12 p.m. by Godfrey’s gharree-dak. Burrows and his sister Maggie went at the same time, that is, the same day.

On the 2nd spent the day at Benares, put up at Charles’s Hotel, a good, almost fine house in bad repair. Visited the famous Kinkob shops but had no spare money to spend, only bought some specimens. Drove through the Chowk, and visited the Benares College.

To Allahabad on the 3rd. The Jumna Bridge works going on briskly as regards the well-sinking, but at too great expense. The wells too small in diameter, ten of them in one pier ; the Soane Bridge wells better, two only in a pier; the Jumna Bridge wells fourteen feet diameter, the Soane Bridge twenty-one feet diameter. Great trouble in getting down the wells, as they leant over sideways in sinking, and ran foul of each other. In the end, one pier was half abandoned and additional wells sunk, making the bridge a halting, unsymmetrical edifice. Still it is a noble bridge, and I am not prepared to say that the error in construction has spoilt the look of it.

Cecil Stephenson was here then.

On the 5th we were at Cawnpore, and saw the famous well where the bodies of the murdered women and children were thrown. Also Wheeler’s entrenchments, which were scarcely visible even then.

My memorandum says that Cawnpore is a hot, dusty, disagreeable place.

Lucknow. Left Cawnpore early on the 7th, crossing the Ganges on the bridge of the boats. From Cawnpore to Lucknow fifty miles, the roads were good, a heavy traffic on them going south, most of the villages still roofless, but the bazaars were re-established and trade seemed to be going on much as usual. My time being much restricted we stayed only two days there, but made the best use of our time, and saw all we could manage to see in so short a time. The Aloom Bagh was in a very battered state, also the houses near the canal bridge, where Havelock and Outram’s forces stormed the bridge. Some fine wide new roads have been made, many old houses pulled down, and new roads made. We put up at the dak bungalow, formerly the Begum’s house.

We visited the Kaiserbagh, an immense pile of buildings, the design airy and gay (I quote from my diary), in two quadrangles; but the buildings are mere shells, a great want of solidity about them. The effect to me was not satisfactory; plaster and paint, florid ornament, tinsel work, “ gilded domes and glittering spires.” There is, however, a certain charm about it all; the nautch-house in the middle and the marble pavilions are beautiful.

We then visited the ruins of the Residency, saw the Bailly guard, the Imaum barree, and the Badsha bagh, the Martiniere, Secundrabagh, &c.

I mounted to the top of one of the minarets of the Imaum barree, about 150 feet high, and enjoyed the fine view. Unfortunately Capt. Crommelin was absent, who was among the besieged in Lucknow, and did good service there. He laid out the new roads afterwards.

On the 10th we were again at Cawnpore, that is, Fanny, Nelly, Geordie, and myself; it took twelve hours to get over the fifty miles.

On the 12th we reached Agra; 182 miles, done in forty-two hours. Visited the Taj, a sight of which well repaid us for our fatigues. Put up at Beaumont Hotel.

With Messrs. Gilmour, Cowley, Burrows, and others, visited the Fort of Agra and palace therein, the Motu Musjeed, that is, the Pearl Musjeed, or mosque, a marvellously beautiful structure of pure white marble. We then drove out to Secundra, and spent two hours there; the Secundrabagh contains the splendid tomb of Akbar Khan, the usual large square enclosure, with a portico in the middle of each side. The central building contains the tomb in a vault; on the third storey a splendid tessellated marbled enclosure has the monument, all beautifully carved.

We went no further to the N. W. this time, as I was wanted on the works, and were at Agra another day, and arrived at Cawnpore on our return journey on the 17th, and on to Allahabad, where we found Lemesurier and Cecil Stephenson living in a comfortable house, formerly Berril’s Hotel, close to the River Jumna. I went over the works carefully with Sibley and Cecil; the station buildings well on, but a great deal yet to be done, a circular engine shed for twenty engines. Large temporary sheds erected, where everything is done in a scrambling sort of way.

We were at Benares again on the 19th. In the afternoon drove Fanny to the public garden, which is prettily laid out, and contains some splendid plants ; the climbing plants especially fine.

Arrived at Buxar on Sunday the 20th, and next day was spent with Shervinton, on the works. Then on to Domroan, and breakfasted at Longlands bungalow, and on to Beheea. Burrows was then seriously unwell. Walter Thomson was there, and Smithson ; Dr. Brydone also.

At Arrah we stayed all night, in Mr. Field’s bungalow; Mr. and Mrs. Field were kind and hospitable. Mr. Boyle had not returned from Calcutta, whither he had gone to bring up his wife and sister.

On the 25th I left Fanny and the children at Mr. Field’s, and went on early to the Soane Bridge. Three spans on the west side were almost finished, one in hand on the staging ; two spans quite finished on the east side, and one in hand. Fourteen spans Schmidt promised to have complete in June next. A good deal of the well-sinking still to be done, but the process is now well arranged and going on steadily. I instructed Schmidt to sink them into the Kunkur heading clay to a depth of 10 ft. as a minimum.

Fanny and the children came up next day, and we all left the Soane at 12 noon on two trollies, and arrived at Bankipore at 5 p.m. We stayed all night in Alien’s bungalow. The station buildings were well on, and ready to receive the roofing.

We left Bankipore (Patna) on the 28th, and worked our way down along the line of railway, I examining and inspecting the works. Stopped at Mr. McAdams’ bungalow at Barrh. Purcell at the Hullohur works.

February. On the 2nd February arrived at Monghyr, where we found our camp, the tents pitched in the old place at Sutfeabad in the mangoe tope, and D. Cruz in charge thereof.

The 3rd being Sunday, we went to church at Monghyr. Dr. Duka read the prayers, and Mr. Bean read a sermon.

Here I found a heap of letters that required immediate attention, and I had also to write my half-yearly report on the works. This took up some time, and we were glad of a rest, and a cessation from constant travelling.

Harris was then carrying on the tunnel works, sending in large quantities of sal-wood sleepers. Mr. Duka read prayers again on Sunday the 10th, and Mr. Davis read a sermon. Mr. Vaux, and Galwey and I, settled all we could settle about the station plans for Jumalpoor and the station at Monghyr. On the 11th we had a small dinner party in our tent: Mr. and Mrs. Vaux, Mr. and Mrs. George Smith, jun., McAdam, and Galwey.

I finished my half-yearly report and sent it off to Ninian Thomson on the 11th to be copied, and sent on to Calcutta to Mr. Palmer. Capt. Metcalfe was at Monghyr, in command of the 15th Pun- jabee Seikh Regiment, now in the troop boat “Gogra,” in tow of the steamer “Koel,” bound for Allahabad. He and they are from Pekin, where they had a good deal of “ loot,” and have some with them. Capt. Metcalfe gave Fanny some blue Mandarin silk from the Summer Palace, Pekin.

On the 13th we left Suffeabad, and drove on twenty miles to Sultangunge, meeting Harris at the tope; Harris, full of the discoveries he made about the Buddhist ruins of the temple and large copper image at Sultangunge. A large mound, or conical hill was there used as a Mohammedan burying-place; Harris found it was literally a heap of broken bricks, and wanted it for ballast. After a good deal of negotiation we succeeded in purchasing it, and finding them another and a better burying-place. There was a sufficient quantity of old bricks to ballast several miles of the railway. Underneath this heap of broken bricks there was found the ruins of a large Buddhist building, no doubt a temple, but with a number of small cells, evidently intended for the Buddhist priests, a sort of monastery. The foundations were probably ail there, but the walls were partly destroyed, their height very unequal, some only a few feet, and some six, eight, or ten feet high, the internal spaces filled with rubbish. In the compartments a number of stone figures were found, and in one was found a large copper figure of Buddha, about 7! ft. high ; it was lying prostrate on its back and in excellent preservation. It is made of copper-plates, not cast. The countenance is very pleasing. Mr. Harris brought it to England, and it is now in the Birmingham Museum.

Off early on the 14th, and drove Fanny about nineteen miles to the old camping ground near Cleveland’s monument, east of Bhaugulpore. Sieveking was in charge of the Chumpun muddy works. Hanan also in charge here.

On Sunday, 17th, to church at Bhaugulpore, Mr. Sandys, the I magistrate, read the prayers. We dined with Mr. Sandys on next day.

On the 19th to Janada, and pitched in the beautiful tope near Levinge’s house. The piers of Gogah Bridge all up and men were rivetting the girders.

On the seven following days we worked our way eastwards along the works, all now drawing towards a conclusion more or less; to Ramzanapore, Colgong station, where Burr was busy at work. Then to Searmaree and got into the old house there, now empty, formerly occupied by Mr. and Mrs. Hickie. Then on to Sahibgunge where the station had made little, very little, progress since I was there, 22nd November, three months previously.

Taljeria. On the 25th we encamped for the last time at Taljeria, which was always a favourite spot with me.

Rails were connected throughout nearly all the way, except a small interval near the River Godai. An engine and second class carriage took us from Taljeria on to Branshol where the Rajmahal branch diverges. Here we were met by Mr. Vigors who accompanied us to Rajmahal. Orr was in bed ill, having had a severe fall from his horse.

We spent two days very pleasantly with Mr. and Mrs. Vigors at Rajmahal. Fanny had been suffering a good deal in her head, a kind of bilious headache, originating, I believe, from too much exposure to the sun. Heard that Mrs. David Murray had died of cholera.

On the 28th we went on by railway train to Rampore Haut and stopped all night at the Perry’s bungalow, and the next day, which was the ist March, arrived in Calcutta, having been away since 20th November, that is fourteen weeks and two days.

March 1st. The two children were none the worse .but all the better for the journey; Nellie was only four years old and Geordie not a year old, both in excellent health. Not so their mother, who had headache and nausea, no doubt owing to too much exposure in the sun of Bengal. Dr. Bourne, whom we called in, prescribed for her.

We were now in our old quarters, 9, Russell Street, just vacated by the Schalchs, to whom it had been let, and who left everything in excellent order.

Assam Co. The Assam Tea Company had a Board of Directors in Calcutta, and being a shareholder they invited me to join the board, as a vacancy had occurred; this I did, and attended a meeting of the board for the first time on the 4th March. I do not recollect who were the directors, except that Mr. Mackey was one of them, and Mr. Judge ; the latter at that time was away at Darjeeling, and had a handsome salary as a kind of manager, but did little or nothing for it. I soon found out that the proceedings of this board was anything but satisfactory, and in fact it was apparent to me that it was a mistake or error to have a board in Calcutta and another in London. It was a vicious system, and I lost little time in sending in my resignation, as soon as I found out how things were going. I bought fifty shares of this company in May, 1860. Fifty shares, £20 paid— £1,000; I bought at £34 10s. and have held them ever since. It is the best investment I ever made; the shares now sell at about £85.

All this month and half of the next were spent in Calcutta in office work; a considerable accumulation of matters, plans, reports, estimates, correspondence, had to be worked off.

Calcutta University Syndicate. I had been appointed a member of the Syndicate of the Calcutta University, which I considered a high honour ; and on the 5th, there was a special meeting at which Lord Canning presided, for the giving of degrees ; but I seem to have kept no record of what had passed.

Sulkea Dock. The Oriental and Peninsular Steam Company, employed me to design and improve, by lengthening their Graving Dock at Sulkea, and widening the entrance. Mr. A. C. Bell assisted me in the business. The gates were constructed and fixed; Mr. Macnicol was living there in charge of the works, especially th^ pumping apparatus, which was very powerful. The steamer “ Candia ” was in dock under repair when we visited the dock on the 9th March.

Mr. Palmer was still agent, and we had much to arrange. Mr. Robert Roberts was the chief accountant, an able man and full of work, which was fast accumulating in his office and the agent’s office. Palmer took things in an easy, dilettante kind of manner, and would not exert or trouble himself much in any way ; and on that account was not popular among the best men of his subordinates. Roberts tried to organize a kind of committee of management to meet and settle matters of business. The heads of the Locomotive, the Traffic, the Accountants, and the engineers departments complained that they never could get anything decided and settled, that Mr. Palmer, the representative of the board of directors, would never come to a conclnsion about anything. The idea was that Mr. Palmer should preside at this board of management, regular record of business should be kept, and questions discussed and settled. I agreed with Roberts, who drew up a programme of the scheme, that it would be a good thing, but that it appeared to me impracticable for very obvious reasons. What became of the scheme I never heard, only I know it went home to the board in London and came to nothing.

April. On the 4th, we dined at the Purdon’s, with Mr. Oldham, the geologist, Mr. Granville, the architect, Mr. and Mrs. Judge, Pirie Gordon, A. C. Bell and Harry Ramsbotham.

On the 5th, we had a small dinner party, Mr. and Mrs. Barton, Mr. and Mrs. Pereira, Lemesurier, and Ninian Thomson.

Captain J. P. Beadle was now the consulting engineer to the Government about railways.

Harry Ramsbotham, 47th N.I., my cousin, was then staying with us in No. 9, Russell Street, a very fine, agreeable young man. He went home on leave shortly afterwards, and, poor fellow, met with an untimely death in London, I think. He suffered dreadfully from neuralgia, and had been using chloroform; he was found dead in his bed, it is supposed from taking an over-dose; at least an empty bottle which had contained chloroform was found at his bedside.

As the railway was now open to Rajmahal, and traffic going on regularly, also the works above Rajmahal making satisfactory progress; thirdly, as I was not well and feeling feverish, and not fit for much work, and Fanny also being far from well, I conferred with Mr. Palmer, and so made up my mind to take a trip to Darjeeling.

So it came to pass that we started for Darjeeling on the 15th April. The party consisted of Fanny and the two children and myself, Mrs. Dyson (nurse), and the Ayah. We reached Talgeria at 6 p.m.. Vigors having joined us at Teenpuhar; Mr. Boyle also came over with us.

I was anxious to explore the country from a point on the north bank of the Ganges, opposite Sahibgunge to Titalyah, at the foot of the mountains, to see whether a railway could not be made from that point to Darjeeling. A railway to Darjeeling was contemplated, and I had the idea that this was the proper line to take; so went to Sahibgunge, crossed the Ganges, arriving on the north bank at 8 p.m. This was a foolish thing to do, as the weather was now becoming very hot, and there was no regular road or track to Purmah from that point. We ought to have gone by the route via Monghyr and Caragola Ghat.

We took twenty-four Sahibgunge men and sixteen Talgeria men with us for the palkies and banghies. We started at once, and got to Munearee that night. There Mr. Paiva met us with a twowheeled wagon. We started from Munearee at 1 a.m. with the wagon and two palkees. After going about a mile the horses broke down; one lay down and could not rise. The coolies, unable to remove the wagon, we remained there in the jungle all night.

I left Fanny with the carriage, and walked forward about four miles, and started the palkees and bearers with the children; they had stopped when they heard the carriage had broken down. They had twenty-four men ; the Talgeria men had bolted. I walked back to find the carriage, but missed my way, and could not find it—it had gone forward on another track—and so I turned back and overtook it at last, after a dreadful walk, as I reckoned, of about twenty miles in the long grass jungle, and in the heat of a Bengal sun. The children got into a half-dilapidated schoolhouse in the heat of the day. One palkee-bearer died there of cholera, and ten more were left behind ill. So this was a kind of adventure, not at all an agreeable one. I was very ill with headache from the sun.

We arrived at Purneah on the 19th, and rested all day in the dak bungalow. Mr. Garstin was there in charge, and was most kind.

20th. We reached Kissengunge on the 20th, and waited all day searching for bearers. Mr. Perry, the deputy-magistrate, at length arranged to send us on by Hackeries, that is, bullock-carts.

On Sunday the 21st we left Kissengunge in good style, with four palkees in four bullock-carts, and got on twelve miles to a place called Kurkasie, and bivouaked there, comfortably sleeping in the palkees.

On the 23rd we got to Titalayah, and on by 48 dak bearers to Punkabaree, which place may be designated as the end of the plains of Bengal in this direction, and at the foot of the mountain region. The Terai is a belt of swampy land between the rice growing plains and the foot of the mountains, about ten miles broad at this point ending at Punkabaree; it has the reputation of being very unhealthy, from malaria arising from decayed vegetable matter and want of any good drainage. The part we passed through was evidently very fertile; dark coloured earth, small thick jungle, deep wet-looking swampy ground and long grass, and interspersed with large trees unknown to me; the natives called them Chelownie - they had some resemblance to teak, but they are not teak.

We began ascending at Punkabaree by a steep zigzag road, narrow but not difficult; palkee bearers did the work, no horse work beyond Punkabaree except hill ponies. Reached Kursion dak bungalow on the 24th, said to be 5,000 feet above sea level. In six hours we changed for a temperature of 88° at Punkabaree, into one of 66° at Kursion ; the change was simply delightful.

Kursion on the 25th. 5,000 feet above the sea. My diary says 25th. We slept last night at Kursion dak bungalow, and enjoyed the cool air. Houses of settlers beautifully situated on the ridges of the hills ; Scanlan’s is particularly well placed. Steep slopes on all sides covered with primeval forests ; clearances here and there, and tea cultivations going on. I add that I rode Mr. Dear’s pony on to Darjeeling, the others came in palkees, all arrived at 4 p.m. on the 25th. The short journey from Kursion was charming; through hills and woods, patches of cultivation, some open meadows, altogether beautiful; appearing the more so after so long struggling in the hot flat plains of Bengal.

We occupied a good furnished house, called Moran’s house, with Mrs. Boyle, jointly; Boyle's sister, Miss Boyle, was there. She was by and bye married to Capt. Herbert Browne, 19th regiment. This house was near the church. Mr. Burney was officiating clergyman. Mrs. Herbert Browne died in the spring of 1892.

Dr. Campbell was then the “Superintendent ” of the settlement. Dr. Collins physician. We called on them soon, and on the other residents: Col. Bishop, Gen. Lloyd, Mrs. Garstin, Capt. Fitzgerald, Capt. Samler, Mr. and Mrs. Roberts, Col. Stisted. Other residents we soon became acquainted with: Gen. Garstin, Major Maitland, Dr. Drysdale, who was stationed at Julapuhar. There was also Gen. Harvey and Mrs. Harvey; last, not least, Charley Barnes.

May. On the 3rd May the temp, was 61°. Capt. Cornish was then one of the notabilities of Darjeeling; also Dr. McLelland and Major Rennie.

The snowy range was plainly visible on the 8th, very well defined, and very grand. No description in words can convey any idea of the effect on the mind by the sight of the Himalayan range of mountains.

The Darjeeling residents were very sociable and friendly, and dinner parties and tiffin parties the order of the day. On the gth we had a few to dinner: Capt. Murray, Mrs. Burney, Capt. James Sherwill, Dr. and Mrs. Collins, Capt. Baker, Mrs. and Miss Boyle, Fanny and I. Next day we dined at Dr. Campbell’s, where we met Sherwill, Fryer, Macdonald, Gandy, Beavan. On the 13th we had a small dinner party: Gen. and Mrs. Lloyd, Dr. McLellan, Dr. Drysdale, Miss Samler.

Mr. Scanlan took us to see his tea plantation, and we saw the whole process, from the plucking of the leaf to the making up and packing for market. Scanlan said he was getting 300 lbs. from an acre per annum.. Selling at 1s. 6d. per lb., i.e., £22. 10s. an acre.

On the 17th we dined at Mr. Burney’s (the clergyman’s) house with Dr. Campbell (the Superintendent), Sherwill, Mrs. Newton, and Captain Baker.

Dr. Drysdale and I went on an expedition to the mineral springs, about eight miles off, where there are invalid soldiers, on ponies, going a long way down hill by a winding road descending, it was said, about 4,500 feet; very fine wild scenery, something like the Pass of Killiecranky, on a much larger scale. The huts for the men were built in the Swiss fashion, cottage-like, in a beautiful ravine. There were then only five men there.

On the 23rd we were at a dinner party at Dr. Collins’s, Gen. and Miss Garstin, Mrs. Murray, Mrs. Boyle, Major Jennings, Lieut. ' Cumberland, Fanny and I. Next day at a ball in the Assembly Rooms, and the day after at a breakfast at Dr. Collins.

Heavy rain. Very heavy rain on the 27th which began the rainy season. A very good flower and vegetable show at the Assembly Rooms.

A letter from Vaux came on the 29th announcing the birth of a boy, and on the same day a letter from Mr. Levinge, at Bhaugulpore, announcing the birth of a girl.

June. Darjeeling. A bright sunshiny morning on the 4th showed the snowy range very clear; the principal peak, Kinchinjunga, formerly considered the highest mountain in the world, was very distinct, its summit is made out to be 28,178 feet above the level of the sea, distance from Darjeeling about forty-five miles. The house we lived in stands about 7,800 above sea level. In the same range a few miles west of Darjeeling, is Jula Puhar, said to be 8,500 above sea level. Here are the sanitary barracks for invalid soldiers from Bengal, well worthy of a visit. The men I spoke to complained of the cold, and I certainly thought the change from the hot plains must be too sudden for them, and that a site 4,000 feet high would be better for them. The houses of the barracks had no porches to them, consequently the wind blew across the floors in a most uncomfortable manner, and the men had some reason to complain, as it appeared to me. Colonel Robertson, of H.M. 6th Regiment, in charge, a very strict man, a great disciplinarian. I should have said that the barracks were at Senchai, not Jula Puhar.

On the 14th the Theatre Royal at Darjeeling was open ; two pieces were acted, one by Senchai officers the other by the Darjeeling men. On the I Sth a dance or ball in the Assembly Rooms.

On the 20th we dined at Capt. Cornish’s with a large party, Col. and Mrs. Bishop, Miss Bishop, Col. and Mrs. Mannering, Fryer, Capt. Cornish, Mrs. and two Misses Cornish; Col. Bishop’s violin playing very good, and Mrs. Boyle’s piano effective. I mention the names of those parties because it brings back old recollections of pleasant times at Darjeeling, and recollections of old friends, most of them now passed away.

All the time at Darjeeling I had a heavy amount of correspondence about the works with the resident engineer, but the post being regular, I found I could carry on work as well as at Calcutta, only I had no time for excursions, as I worked almost every day from six to ten hours.

Mrs. Boyle’s small adventure. There were no wheel carriages in Darjeeling, but plenty of footpaths and bridle paths, fit for ponies and quiet horses. Mrs. Boyle had a fractious beast of a horse called “ Strawberry,” which had a trick of stopping all of a sudden, even when going fast, whereby the rider sometimes came to sudden grief. She had a narrow escape one day I was riding with her, “ Strawberry ” came to a sudden stand, and she, though an excellent rider, was fairly landed on the grass, curious enough the horse fell also, rolling on her riding habit. The horse and rider were so near the edge of a precipice that his hind legs were over the edge, and she was not more than a yard from the edge of the kud. I was afraid of the horse struggling and going over, and held his head flat and hard on the ground while she wriggled herself clear of him ; we were all soon on our feet again and rode home none the worse for the adventure, and I remember admiring Mrs. Boyle’s coolness and self-possesion, she did not even show any sign of alarm. We had a tea party the same night—Dr. Campbell, Sherwell, Lloyd, Beavan, Miss Glasse, Mrs. and Miss Boyle, etc.

July. On the 3rd, heard of McAdam’s death on board the steamer on his way home ; he was a most worthy man, and “ a good soldier,” to quote an epitaph at Lucknow—that is, he was a true engineer and fond of his profession, and took a pride in his work. He was the son or grandson, I don’t know which, of the celebrated McAdam, the road maker, who gave his name to Macadamized roads. Sir John McNeill, I think, gave him the name of the “ Colossus of Rhodes” (roads). Not a bad pun.

Earthslips and fall of trees. On the 5th there was heavy rain. The falling of heavy rain at Darjeeling is very solemn when there is no wind ; a dead stillness prevails, and nothing is heard but the outpouring of the rain in deluges upon the forest trees, which has a curious and solemn effect. Earthslips are common on the steep slopes in heavy falls, bringing down trees with them, and the fall of a great tree, perhaps 70 feet high, crashing among the branches is very curious and startling at first. Six inches of rain in as many hours is not uncommon.

On the 4th, my diary says: “this is Nelly’s birthday, she is five to-day; she can read words of one syllable.” She and the baby (that is Geordie), are sorely troubled with insect bites on their limbs and bodies ; very irritating, and apt to turn into small festers.

Tea parties, balls, theatricals going on now and then; no one seems to have anything else to do, so it is natural to get up amusements ; among the latter may be included several marriages, which took place about this time. Capt. Maitland married Miss Glasse; a grand breakfast was given at the club-house to a distinguished party. A few days after, on the 30th, Major Crossman was married to Miss Garstin and Dr. Drysdale to Miss Samler.

August. On the 7th, my diary says : beautiful bright sunshine in the morning, the snowy range and Kinchinjunga in all their glory ; first very fine morning for a fortnight.

On the 9th I completed my half-yearly report, 24 pages, and sent it off to Mr. Maclure, in Calcutta, to be copied and forwarded.

On the 19th a review took place of the 6th and 19th Queen’s Regiments at Senchai ; a large party went from Darjeeling to see it. Fanny rode all the way on her pony. Col. Stisted, who was the commander of the station, reviewed them. Col. Jennings was there also. Col. Robertson commanded the 6th. The barracks of the 6th are “cutcha” built, with straw-thatched roofs and sheet-iron patches ; very cold in winter, but very pleasant at that time. My memo, says : Senchai stands about 2,000 ft. above Darjeeling.

There was a performance at the theatre a few days after, for the amusement of the soldiers, which was duly appreciated.

Mr. Browne and Miss Boyle. My diary says, on the 21st “Mr. Browne came to dinner; very attentive to Miss Boyle.” This was about the beginning of a courtship which soon ended in a marriage—a happy one so far as I know.

September. I was now arranging to leave Darjeeling being much wanted on the works, and laid a dak for the 3rd September for Caragola. We had dinner parties more than enough just before I left. We gave 3, party to Mr. and Mrs. Burney, Major and Mrs. Crossman, Mr. and Mrs. Fitzgerald, Mr. Browne, etc., etc. Then I went to a great breakfast at Senchai barracks given by the officers of the 6th and 19th. Bainbridge, Gandy, Fortescue, Boddam, Kendal, Hopkins, Fryer, &c., Col. Robertson. Next day at a dinner at the club-house.

On the 5th, Mr. Bainbridge and I left Darjeeling, and arrived at Rajmahal on the 9th, without any special adventure beyond the usual ones attending dak journeys. The distance from Darjeeling to the bank of the Ganges at Caragola is only 152 miles, and that took us four days to get over.

The best account of Darjeeling, so far as I know, is that of Sir J. D. Hooker, in his admirable book, “Tour in the Himalayas.” He says the snowy “range seen from Darjeeling is comprised within an arc of 80°, from 30° west of north to 50° east of north, nearly one-fourth of the horizon. In -winter when the mountains are covered down to 8,000 ft. (above sea level), this whole ridge stretches uninterruptedly for more than 160°. No known view is comparable with this in extent, when the proximity and height of the mountains are considered ; for -within the 80° above mentioned, more than twelve peaks rise above 20,000 ft., and there are none below 15,000 ft., while Kinchinjunga is 28,178 ft., and some others above 22,000 ft. The nearest snow peak is Nursing, 19,139 ft. high, 32 miles distant; the most remote is Donkia, 23,176 ft. high and 73 miles distant. Kinchinjunga, which forms the principal mass both for height and bulk, is 45 miles distant.”

From another source I had the following:

MOUNTAINS SEEN FROM DARJEELING.

[missing table - see pdf]

The Darjeeling ridge varies in height from 6,500 to 7,500 ft. above the level of the sea; 8,000 ft. being the elevation at which the mean temperature most nearly coincides with that of London, viz., 50°. The average temperature of London is 51.9°. The average temperature of Paris, 54°.

The rainfall at Darjeeling in i860, 147 inches. At Senchai the rainfall from 1st to 26th August, 1861, both inclusive, was 23y^o inches. Ditto, from 1st May to 26th August was 138x5 inches.

Mr. Power met me at Rajmahal, and we started for an inspection along the works on the nth, reaching Shewnar on the 19th. I was ill of a severe attack of bronchitis, and could not sleep. Sutherland prescribed for me at Barrh.

Here the news reached me that De Cruz, my clerk, was taken up for forging a cheque for 15,000 rupees in my name.

I got as far as Palin’s bungalow at Meetapore, near Patna, on the 21st. Drs. Sutherland and Balfour came, and I was blistered, and dosed with ipecacuanha and antimonial wine, but without much effect. Power and Boyle went on together to the Soane, and on the 1st October, Power and I left Patna in the “ Prince Albert ” steamer for Calcutta, where we arrived on the 4th. Power made me take Powell’s balsam of aniseed, which gave me relief. Went to our house, 9, Russell Street, and Dr. Webb called and consulted about my illness; he said I ought to return home to England as soon as possible. He was very kind, and came and took up his quarters with me in Russell Street.

October. After conferring with Mr. Power, I gave Mr. Palmer notice that we would be ready to open the line to Bhaugulpore on the 1st November.

Dr. Chevers called, also Stokes, Batchelor, Edward Sandeman, Power, Murray, Capt. Tronson, Palmer, and others : they heard I was going home, and called to say good-bye. Charlotte Boyle was to be married to Mr. Browne, and a commission came to me to buy the marriage ring, which was duly executed, and the ring sent off to Darjeeling.

Dr. Webb ordered my head to be shaved, which was done accordingly, and I sailed in the “Nemesis” for Ceylon on the 23rd October— Capt. Weston. We were at Madras on the 28th, and arrived at Point de Galle harbour on the 31st—a delightful voyage.

November. The “ Nemesis ” went on to Suez, and I stayed a few days at Point de Galle, at the new Mansion House - a good a clean, quiet hotel. I engaged a seat in the mail coach for Colombo, and took the opportunity of being weighed in the office; my weight was only 9 stone 6 lbs. My complaint had disappeared, but I was very weak. Temperature all day 82°.

The date on the old gateway was 1663; a fine bread-fruit tree was growing outside, close to the gateway. Temp. 82°.

Left Point de Galle on the 4th in H. M. mail coach for Colombo, at 5 a.m. We arrived at Colombo at 5 p.m., a delightful drive of 72 miles in twelve hours; an excellent road, level almost all the way, mostly along, or near the sea-shore, through palm trees. For my companion a young Roman Catholic priest, a very agreeable, intelligent man—a Frenchman. He said the missionaries were not making much progress. There are Government schools at several places on the way. Here are Cingalese, also Malabar people, who speak the Tamul language.

Kandy. I wished to get on to Kandy, the ancient capital of Ceylon, but there was no available seat in the coach, and so I had to wait a few days at the Royal Hotel; which is a very good one and very clean. Very heavy rain during the night, and strong S.W. wind; a small ship broke from her moorings in the bay and came ashore, but no lives were lost. There was an excellent subscription library and reading-room. From Colombo to Kandy, the distance is also 72 miles. Left Colombo at 5 a.m. and reached Kandy at 4 p.m. A beautiful drive through a delightful country; first half of the journey through masses of cocoa nut palm trees, areca palm (i.e., the betel nut tree), occasional patches of rice; country flat. The second half of the road, hilly ; road narrow but good, winding among the hills. Coffee plantations near Kandy, not unlike the tea plantations at Darjeeling ; the steep slopes of the hills, planted— picturesque rocky passes—one on which Capt. Dawson’s monument stands, has a curious shape. The soil is a reddish clay with basalt (whinstone), showing itself out here and there; the hills have a rugged outline, white quartz occasionally. There is sandstone north of Kandy.

Kandy is a pretty place, not unlike Lucerne on a small scale. The town built on a flat piece of ground, surrounded by hills, well wooded. It has a fine lake, an artificial one, formed by a large dam thrown across the valley in ancient times by the native rulers of the country.

On the 11th Nov. at Kandy, the ther. at 6 a.m. stood at 65°, at noon 77°, 4 p.m. 78°, exposed to the direct rays of the sun 109°.

I made the acquaintance of Captain Drew, the superintendent of Police, who had taken up his quarters at the hotel; a very pleasant fellow, who told me all about the place and the people in it.

The old Buddhist temple here is very curious and interesting, very old and very dirty. Much frequented by votaries, who give offerings of flowers, food and money. There seemed no difficulty in admitting visitors.

Buddhist temple. Here is the famous so called tooth of Buddha, enclosed in a golden bell-shaped shrine. I was admitted by a very narrow passage of stone work, crooked and almost intricate, leading into a small close room lighted with oil lamps, where the bell-shaped shrine stood on a kind of table. It is about 2 J feet high, and about 15 inches in diameter, of rather an elegant shape, carved all over and hung with festoons of chains and precious stones, said to be of great value. In another room is the figure of Buddha in a sitting posture, about the natural size of a man, or a tittle under. It is said to be made of wood but is covered with gilt metal, very bright. The face has a very pleasing expression ; the head covered with a net ornament. Beside the principal one are a number of small ones, some in little shrines or “ almirahs,” some made of crystal. It was at night when I visited the place when it was lighted up, and there was a dreadful din of reed pipes, tomtoms, drums, and other vile musical instruments.

Here there is an Episcopal Church, a Scotch Presbyterian Kirk, and a Roman Catholic Chapel. I was told there was a great many Scotchman in the neighbourhood of Kandy, mostly engaged in coffee cultivation.

The scenery around is beautiful, hills and mountains in great variety, covered with tropical vegetation. Captain Drew said there are about 500 different kinds of timber trees in the central province, which perhaps was a slight exaggeration. He complained of the expense of living here, that the beef and mutton were both inferior in quality, also the fowls poor and dear. There were, however, plenty of vegetables, in great variety. The place is said to be very healthy. Drew said there were several doctors here, but they had nothing to do. Awing of the 50th Regiment was stationed here. Drew said the average price of land fit for coffee planting was £4. to ^5 an acre; that is for forest land belonging to Government, sometimes as high as ^6 an acre, according to locality. The land is sold by Government by auction, the upset price being per acre.

On the 13th left Kandy at 5 a.m. again in H. M. royal mail coach, and reached Colombo at 4 p.m., stopping an hour at the Rest House for breakfast. The railway was not then in existence, only it was much talked about, and I think was quite organised, and plans and sections made. Captain Dawson, whose monument is a conspicuous object in one of the wild passes, was the engineer who set out and constructed the road. He died there of a fever caught in the discharge of his duty. The monument is a plain Doric column, apparently about fifty feet high.

On the 14th I noticed in the English newspapers a record of the death of Sir William Cubitt, the eminent engineer. The following is a copy of what I wrote in my diary at the time; “ I feel I have lost in him an old and constant and true friend. Ever since 1834, when Mr. Telford died, and I was in his office, Mr. Cubitt befriended me in many ways for twenty-seven years. At Cardiff Docks, Middlesbro’ Docks, Dover Viaduct and Works, Folkestone Harbour, Birkenhead Docks, Great Northern Railway, and lastly. East Indian Railway. I regret that I did not write to him oftener from India, I -was not however ungrateful; I was always grateful to him and highly esteemed him. He has not passed away ‘and left no signs ; ’ he has left monuments of his talent behind him. He has passed through a long active, and useful life. By precept and example he benefited his country; he was no mean aid in carrying out the material improvement of his country. We may well say of him as was written on do his duty.’ ”

On the 15th I was again and found I was 6 lbs. a gain of 2 lbs. cough almost gone.

A Yankee captain at Colombo said that for dysentery he found raw linseed oil and laudanum an excellent remedy. This was corroborated by several others at the table d’hote.

Line was opened to Bhaugulpore on 1st November. Letters from Calcutta from Mr. Power and others, reported that the railway had been opened for traffic to Bhaugulpore on the 1st November.

On the 22nd, sailed in the “Candia” for Calcutta and arrived at Madras on the 25th. Here we heard the sad news of the death of Lady Canning; she died at Barrackpore on the i8th, of fever, said to have been caused by her journey from Darjeeling, through the Terai and the wet country thereabout, where malaria is prevalent.

Mr. Oldham the geologist, came on board at was greatly pleased to meet with him again; he was a class man.

We arrived in Calcutta on the 30th November.

Mr. Maclure came down to Garden Reach to meet me and give me welcome, which was pleasant. I found my friend. Dr. Webb, in No. 9, Russell Street. Mr. Power had a letter from Fanny, saying she was to leave Darjeeling on Friday the 29th.

December. On the 3rd December I went by train to Sahebgunge, and slept at Orr's bungalow, and next day by steamboat to Caragola Ghat to meet Fanny. Unluckily she had left Caragola in a native boat, with the children, and we crossed each other in the middle of the Ganges. I returned immediately in the steamer, and we had a happy meeting at Sahebgunge, she and Nelly and Geordie, all well and blooming, for which I was thankful.

Next day we all went down to Soorool, including that wonderful half-caste nurse, Mrs. Dyson, and stopped there with the Latimers. Next day being the 5th, we returned to Calcutta to our old abode. No. 9, Russell Street. Just three months this day since I had left Darjeeling.

Dr. Webb and his son Edward were with us in Russell Street.

On the 10th December my old clerk, Mr. De Cruz, was tried for forgery in the supreme court, where I gave evidence; he was convicted, and sentenced to ten years penal servitude, and was sent to the Andaman Islands. He forged my name to a cheque for 15,000 rupees (£1,500). He was my clerk - I might almost say confidential clerk - for a series of more than a dozen years, in the office and in camp, in daily intercourse with me. This want of principle was surprising and distressing. His people were highly respectable, and I confided in his integrity and honesty. He was a half-caste man, clever in his way, and a most useful man. He was sent to the Andaman Islands, and I heard some time afterwards that his value was found out there, and that he was usefully employed in keeping accounts and statistical records of all that went on there. Long before his term was expired he was released on something like parole, or ticket of leave, and I had a letter from him, asking me to give him a certificate of character; a piece of assurance that I did not think it necessary to reply to.

There was much to do in the office when I returned, but Mr. Power was a great help.

I was a director of the Calcutta Board of the Assam Company, and attended a meeting on the 14th, but I totally disagreed with their proceedings, and resigned my situation on the Board.

On that day, the 14th, Mrs. Webb and her two daughters arrived from England.

On the 21st Mr. and Mrs. Vigors arrived, and took up their quarters in our lower rooms.

A small dinner party on the 25th, being Christmas Day: Mr. and Mrs. Maclure, Mr. and Mrs. Stokes, Mr. and Mrs. Vigors, Capt. Boddam, Mr. and Mrs. Barton, Mr. Cotter.

Mrs. Vigors became very ill, Fanny was ill with severe cold, and Mr. Cumberland, who was with us, was very feeble from fever. The two Vigors went away home to Rajmahal on the 31st; and so 1861 did not end in a jolly fashion.

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